A retrospective analysis of mission reports in the national Swedish Police Registry on mountain rescue 2018-2022: here be snowmobiles.

BACKGROUND: Increasing mountain activity and decreasing participant preparedness, as well as climate change, suggest needs to tailor mountain rescue. In Sweden, previous medical research of these services are lacking. The aim of the study is to describe Swedish mountain rescue missions as a basis for future studies, public education, resource allocation, and rescuer training. METHODS: Retrospective analysis of all mission reports in the national Swedish Police Registry on Mountain Rescue 2018-2022 (n = 1543). Outcome measures were frequencies and characteristics of missions, casualties, fatalities, traumatic injuries, medical conditions, and incident mechanisms. RESULTS: Jämtland county had the highest proportion of missions (38%), followed by Norrbotten county (36%). 2% of missions involved ≥ 4 casualties, and 44% involved ≥ 4 mountain rescuers. Helicopter use was recorded in 59% of missions. Non-Swedish citizens were rescued in 12% of missions. 37% of casualties were females. 14% of casualties were ≥ 66 or ≤ 12 years of age. Of a total 39 fatalities, cardiac event (n = 14) was the most frequent cause of death, followed by trauma (n = 10) and drowning (n = 8). There was one avalanche fatality. 8 fatalities were related to snowmobiling, and of the total 1543 missions, 309 (20%) were addressing snowmobiling incidents. Of non-fatal casualties, 431 involved a medical condition, of which 90 (21%) suffered hypothermia and 73 (17%) cardiovascular illness. CONCLUSIONS: These baseline data suggest snowmobiling, cardiac events, drownings, multi-casualty incidents, and backcountry internal medicine merit future study and intervention.

Exome sequencing in extreme altitude mountaineers identifies pathogenic variants in RTEL1 and COL6A1 previously associated with respiratory failure.

Adaptation of humans to challenging environmental conditions, such as extreme temperature, malnutrition, or hypoxia, is an interesting phenomenon for both basic and applied research. Identification of the genetic factors contributing to human adaptation to these conditions enhances our understanding of the underlying molecular and physiological mechanisms. In our study, we analyzed the exomes of 22 high altitude mountaineers to uncover genetic variants contributing to hypoxic adaptation. To our surprise, we identified two putative loss-of-function variants, rs1385101139 in RTEL1 and rs1002726737 in COL6A1 in two extremely high altitude (personal record of more than 8500 m) professional climbers. Both variants can be interpreted as pathogenic according to medical geneticists' guidelines, and are linked to inherited conditions involving respiratory failure (late-onset pulmonary fibrosis and severe Ullrich muscular dystrophy for rs1385101139 and rs1002726737, respectively). Our results suggest that a loss of gene function may act as an important factor of human adaptation, which is corroborated by previous reports in other human subjects.

Validity and Reliability of Finger-Strength Testing in 6 Common Grip Techniques for the Assessment of Bouldering Ability in Men.

OBJECTIVE: To determine the criterion validity and test-retest reliability of isometric finger-strength testing in 6 differentiated grip techniques for the assessment of bouldering ability among male climbers. METHODS: We recruited participants at climbing gyms in Sweden and through online advertisements. We included climbers over 15 years of age with a minimum bouldering performance level of 17 International Rock Climbing and Research Association (IRCRA) for men and 15 IRCRA for women. We tested unilateral, maximal isometric peak finger strength in the front 3 drag, half crimp, closed crimp, 35 sloper, 45 × 90-mm, and 90 × 90-mm pinch through maximal force deloaded of a force plate. We analyzed criterion validity, test-retest reliability, and capacity to determine bouldering performance ability using a stepwise multivariable regression model. RESULTS: Women were excluded from the analysis due to insufficient sample size (n = 16). Thirty-two male participants were included in the primary analysis. The median (interquartile range) age in the advanced and elite group was 27 (25; 35) and 23 (22; 32) years, respectively. The half crimp for the participants' weak and strong hand displayed the highest ability to determine bouldering grade performance, explaining 48% to 58% of the variance. In the stepwise regression, maximal strength in the half crimp and the front 3 drag collectively explained 66% of the variance for performance. CONCLUSION: Strength in the half crimp proved the most important performance indicator. The results of this study provide a reliable and valid framework for maximal isometric peak finger-strength testing in advanced and elite male boulderers.

Analysis of Sprint Ski Mountaineering Performance.

Ski mountaineering sprint competitions are short individual races involving 3 uphill sections (U), 3 transitions (T), and a final descent. To date, relatively little is known about this novel Olympic discipline, and here we examined (1) the contribution of the time spent on U, T, and final descent to overall finishing time and (2) the potential relationships with final ranking. During the different rounds of 2 International Ski Mountaineering Federation World Cup sprint competitions, male and female ski mountaineers were video recorded. Correlation and multiple linear regression analyses were used to investigate the impact of U, T, and final descent on the best overall finishing time. Linear-mixed model analysis was applied to explore potential interactions between section times, rounds, and final ranking. Overall, U (r = .90-.97) and T (r = .57-.89) were closely correlated with the best overall finishing time (all P < .05). U explained approximately 80% to 90% of the variation in the best finishing time for both sexes, with U + T explaining approximately 95% to 98% of this variation. In each successive round, the ski mountaineers eliminated were all slower on U than the Top 3 (all P < .05). The fastest skiers increased their performance on U in the later rounds of the competitions, while those eliminated showed a tendency toward a decrease. Our findings reveal that world-class sprint ski mountaineers conduct transitions optimally and perform effectively uphill. Training for such competitions should aim to improve short supramaximal uphill performance (∼1.5-2.5 min), ensuring that this does not decline with multiple efforts. These insights into ski mountaineering sprint performance are of considerable value in connection with training for the 2026 Winter Olympics.

Comparison of finger flexion strength and muscular recovery of male lead sport climbers across climbing classes.

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVE: The purpose of this study was to compare finger flexor strength (FS), finger flexor muscle recovery (FR), and forearm circumference (FC) across three different climbing classes in male lead sport climbers. METHODS: A total of 37 male lead sport climbers were classified into low (LC), intermediate (IC), and advanced classes (AC) categories according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) Scale. All participants measured FS three times for both open grip (OG) and crimp grip (CG). Following FS measurement, the FR was observed immediately after the all-out training. The FC was measured twice using an inelastic tape. RESULTS: The FS differed significantly across climbing classes for both grip styles and hands, regardless of dominant hand, with the higher classes showing greater FS (all, p ≤ 0.001). FR was significantly higher in AC compared to IC and LC at 5 min (all, p ≤ 0.001), 10 min (all, p ≤ 0.005) and 15 min (all, p ≤ 0.005). The FC showed significant differences with climbing classes for both forearms. CONCLUSION: Climbing classes are associated with differences in FS, with higher class corresponding to greater FS. Similarly, climbing classes are linked to FR and FC, with higher classes being associated with faster recovery and larger FC.

Simulations of the human heat balance during Mount Everest summit attempts in spring and winter.

The majority of research dealing with the impacts of the Himalayan climate on human physiology focuses on low air temperature, high wind speed, and low air pressure and oxygen content, potentially leading to hypothermia and hypoxia. Only a few studies describe the influence of the weather conditions in the Himalayas on the body's ability to maintain thermal balance. The aim of the present research is to trace the heat exchange between humans and their surroundings during a typical, 6-day summit attempt of Mount Everest in the spring and winter seasons. Additionally, an emergency night outdoors without tent protection is considered. Daily variation of the heat balance components were calculated by the MENEX_HA model using meteorological data collected at automatic weather stations installed during a National Geographic expedition in 2019-2020. The data represent the hourly values of the measured meteorological parameters. The research shows that in spite of extreme environmental conditions in the sub-summit zone of Mount Everest during the spring weather window, it is possible to keep heat equilibrium of the climbers' body. This can be achieved by the use of appropriate clothing and by regulating activity level. In winter, extreme environmental conditions in the sub-summit zone make it impossible to maintain heat equilibrium and lead to hypothermia. The emergency night in the sub-peak zone leads to gradual cooling of the body which in winter can cause severe hypothermia of the climber's body. At altitudes < 7000 m, climbers should consider using clothing that allows variation of insulation and active regulation of their fit around the body.

Suspension syndrome: a scoping review and recommendations from the International Commission for Mountain Emergency Medicine (ICAR MEDCOM).

BACKGROUND: Suspension syndrome describes a multifactorial cardio-circulatory collapse during passive hanging on a rope or in a harness system in a vertical or near-vertical position. The pathophysiology is still debated controversially. AIMS: The International Commission for Mountain Emergency Medicine (ICAR MedCom) performed a scoping review to identify all articles with original epidemiological and medical data to understand the pathophysiology of suspension syndrome and develop updated recommendations for the definition, prevention, and management of suspension syndrome. METHODS: A literature search was performed in PubMed, Embase, Web of Science and the Cochrane library. The bibliographies of the eligible articles for this review were additionally screened. RESULTS: The online literature search yielded 210 articles, scanning of the references yielded another 30 articles. Finally, 23 articles were included into this work. CONCLUSIONS: Suspension Syndrome is a rare entity. A neurocardiogenic reflex may lead to bradycardia, arterial hypotension, loss of consciousness and cardiac arrest. Concomitant causes, such as pain from being suspended, traumatic injuries and accidental hypothermia may contribute to the development of the Suspension Syndrome. Preventive factors include using a well-fitting sit harness, which does not cause discomfort while being suspended, and activating the muscle pump of the legs. Expediting help to extricate the suspended person is key. In a peri-arrest situation, the person should be positioned supine and standard advanced life support should be initiated immediately. Reversible causes of cardiac arrest caused or aggravated by suspension syndrome, e.g., hyperkalaemia, pulmonary embolism, hypoxia, and hypothermia, should be considered. In the hospital, blood and further exams should assess organ injuries caused by suspension syndrome.

Challenges in the management of high-altitude illnesses and emergencies in Bhutan and Nepal.

Many popular tourist attractions and trekking routes in Bhutan and Nepal are situated between 3000 and 6000 m in elevation. High-altitude emergencies are becoming more common and medical providers must be aware of the practical and medical issues in managing these disorders. We reflect on the challenges in providing high-altitude emergency medical services in Bhutan and Nepal.

Rehabilitation of Annular Pulley Injuries of the Fingers in Climbers: A Clinical Commentary.

ABSTRACT: The annular pulley ligaments of the fingers are one of the most injured anatomical structures in those who participate in climbing. Despite this, there is a paucity of guidance clearly describing the rehabilitation and physical preparation parameters to return to sport following such injuries. The foundation of effective rehabilitation is the judicious application of progressive loading to increase the morphological and material properties of the damaged tissues. We maintain the optimal management of the climbing athlete after a traumatic annular flexor pulley system rupture should be grounded in the principles of strength and conditioning.

Women's Health at High Altitude: An Introduction to a 7-Part Series by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation Medical Commission.

Horakova, Lenka, Peter Paal, Jacqueline Pichler Hefti, Marija Andjelkovic, Beth A. Beidleman, Mia Derstine, David Hillebrandt, Dominique Jean, Kaste Mateikaite-Pipiriene, Alison J. Rosier, Susi Kriemler, and Linda E. Keyes. Women's health at high altitude: An introduction to a 7-part series by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation Medical Commission. High Alt Med Biol. 24:243-246, 2023. Background: Women have been traveling to high altitude since the inception of modern mountaineering. Although there are distinct female-specific features such as menstruation and menopause relevant to adaptation to and performance at high altitude, very little data exist on women's high-altitude health. To summarize what is known to date, the Medical Commission of the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) has created a series of articles on women's health, high altitude illness, and performance at high altitude. Methods: Assembling an international author team, two types of manuscripts were developed: (1) reviews on female-specific topics such as pregnancy; (2) reviews on sex differences in high-altitude related illnesses, nutrition, cold injuries, and mortality. Results: The literature search yielded 7,165 articles, with 482 studies meeting the inclusion criteria for full-text review. The authors of individual chapters reviewed these articles and performed additional hand searches. Conclusions: Some important questions on women sojourning and exercising at high altitude have been studied, but many are still awaiting a qualified and evidence-based response. Our seven reviews, to be published in future issues of this journal, summarize what is known about lowland women sojourning at high altitude, provide recommendations, and highlight knowledge gaps in high altitude women's medicine.

Occupational Aspects of Alpine Helicopter Rescue Operations: Recommendation of the Medical Commission of the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme.

Helicopter rescue operations in the mountains or at high altitude are well-known as strenuous tasks often associated with some risk. However, there is no standardized procedure for preventive checkups of rescue personnel by occupational care professionals. Therefore, the Medical Commission of the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA MedCom) suggests the procedure presented in this study. This comprehensive recommendation is based on more than 2 decades of research of MedCom members and extensive literature search. A total of 248 references were selected by the committee as relevant for the topic. To keep the recommendation handy, the complete list is available as supplemental material (see online Supplemental Material). This article recommends standardized procedures for occupational screening and better health of search and rescue personnel.

Assessing climbers' pull-up capabilities by differentiating the parameters involved in power production.

This study explored the capabilities of sport climbers to pull up with arms. The methodology aimed at assessing (i) concentric capabilities of arm muscles, (ii) body coordination skills (iii) characteristics of energy storage and (iv) capabilities to resist fatigue. Twenty-eight climbers were tested and the force exerted was recorded during three pull-up exercises: jump tests (with or without coordination, or preceded by an eccentric phase), incrementally weighted pull-ups and maximum number of pull-ups. Force, velocity, muscle power and muscle work were analysed using ANOVA with post-hoc tests and principal component analysis. Correlations with climbing level were also studied. Overall, jump test results showed that body coordination and stretch-shortening cycle phenomena contributed significantly to performance but only the body coordination was related to the climber's grade level. Muscle work and maximum number of pull-ups are correlated with climbing level which showed that the capacity to resist fatigue is another crucial capability of climbers arms. The development of force capacities appeared crucial for performing whereas the velocity capabilities seemed to originate from the climber's own characteristics/style without correlating with climbing performance. Our study provides the basis for evaluating these parameters in order to help trainers in the diagnosis process and training follow-up.

Frostbite and Mortality in Mountaineering Women: A Scoping Review-UIAA Medical Commission Recommendations.

Kriemler, Susi, Kaste Mateikaite-Pipiriene, Alison Rosier, Linda E. Keyes, Peter Paal, Marija Andjelkovic, Beth A. Beidleman, Mia Derstine, Jacqueline Pichler Hefti, David Hillebrandt, Lenka Horakova, and Dominique Jean; for the UIAA MedCom Writing Group on Women's Health in the Mountains. Frostbite and mortality in mountaineering women: a scoping review-UIAA Medical Commission recommendations. High Alt Med Biol. 24:247-258, 2023. Background: The harsh environment of high altitudes (HA) poses many serious health risks for mountaineers, including cold injuries and death. The aim of this work was to review whether female mountaineers are at special risk for frostbite or death at HA compared with their male counterparts. Methods: The UIAA Medical Commission convened an international author team to review women's health issues at HA and to publish updated recommendations. Pertinent literature from PubMed and Cochrane was identified with additional publications found by hand search. The primary search focus was for articles assessing cold injuries and death in women mountaineers at HA. Results: We reviewed the literature and identified 20 relevant studies: 2 studies on frostbite at HA, plus 7 studies and 1 report for death at HA. An additional 10 studies about frostbite at low altitude were included. We found that female mountaineers at HA were at lower risk of death than their male counterparts, but sex differences in frostbite were inconclusive. Conclusions: The frequency of cold injuries and mortality in female mountaineers is not yet well studied, and the studies that have been published tend to lack precise exposure data. More studies and registries with sex-differentiated data are needed.

Handedness, Bilateral, and Interdigit Strength Asymmetries in Male Climbers.

PURPOSE: To determine whether there are bilateral and interdigit differences in the maximal force production of experienced climbers and whether these differences are mediated by ability level or preferred style of climbing. METHODS: Thirty-six male climbers (age 30 [9.4] y) took part in a single-session trial to test their maximal force production on both hands. The tests included a one-arm maximal isometric finger flexor strength test (MIFS) and a one-arm individual MIFS. Bilateral differences were analyzed by strongest hand (defined as the hand that produced the highest MIFS value) and dominance (defined as the writing hand). RESULTS: A pairwise t test found that MIFS was significantly greater for the strongest hand (mean difference = 4.1%, 95% CI, -0.052 to 0.029, P < .001), with handedness explaining 89% of the variation. A 2-way mixed-model analysis of variance determined that there were no interactions between preferred style (bouldering or sport climbing) and MIFS or between ability level (advanced or elite) and MIFS. CONCLUSIONS: Climbers have significant finger flexor strength bilateral asymmetries between their strongest and weakest hand. Moreover, when dominance is controlled, this difference in strength is present, with the dominant hand producing more force. Neither preferred style of climbing nor the ability level of the climbers could explain these asymmetries. As such, practitioners should consider regularly monitoring unilateral strength, aiming to minimize the likelihood of large bilateral asymmetry occurring.

Termination of Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation in Mountain Rescue: A Scoping Review and ICAR MedCom 2023 Recommendations.

Lugnet, Viktor, Miles McDonough, Les Gordon, Mercedes Galindez, Nicolas Mena Reyes, Alison Sheets, Ken Zafren, and Peter Paal. Termination of cardiopulmonary resuscitation in mountain rescue: a scoping review and ICAR MedCom 2023 recommendations. High Alt Med Biol. 24:274-286, 2023. Background: In 2012, the International Commission for Mountain Emergency Medicine (ICAR MedCom) published recommendations for termination of cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR) in mountain rescue. New developments have necessitated an update. This is the 2023 update for termination of CPR in mountain rescue. Methods: For this scoping review, we searched the PubMed and Cochrane libraries, updated the recommendations, and obtained consensus approval within the writing group and the ICAR MedCom. Results: We screened a total of 9,102 articles, of which 120 articles met the inclusion criteria. We developed 17 recommendations graded according to the strength of recommendation and level of evidence. Conclusions: Most of the recommendations from 2012 are still valid. We made minor changes regarding the safety of rescuers and responses to primary or traumatic cardiac arrest. The criteria for termination of CPR remain unchanged. The principal changes include updated recommendations for mechanical chest compression, point of care ultrasound (POCUS), extracorporeal life support (ECLS) for hypothermia, the effects of water temperature in drowning, and the use of burial times in avalanche rescue.

An Episode of "Third Person" Phenomenon Involving Somesthetic and Visual Hallucinations in a World-Class Extreme Altitude Climber.

Psychotic symptoms can occur at high altitude. However, most reports are in the mountaineering literature and lack a clear medical assessment and interpretation. Here we report an episode of isolated high-altitude psychosis. It consisted of a "third person" phenomenon involving 2 sensory modalities: somesthetic (felt presence) and visual (the light of 2 flashlights) hallucinations. This episode occurred in a highly experienced climber when he was at an altitude of approximately 7500 m while descending at dusk from the summit of Gasherbrum I (8068 m). The symptoms lasted approximately 3 h and had fully resolved on reaching high camp (7150 m). No other physical or mental symptoms were reported. In addition to hypoxia, a number of other risk factors could have contributed to the occurrence of psychosis in this climber. These included sleep deprivation, exhaustion, dehydration, electrolyte disturbance, reduced visibility, feeling of isolation, and perceived danger. The climber has participated in many extreme altitude expeditions, and neither before nor since this episode has the climber experienced psychotic symptoms.

A Finger in the Game: Sport-Specific Finger Strength Training and Onset of Injury.

INTRODUCTION: Strength training has proved to be an effective way to prevent injuries, but the evidence of the impact of strength training on finger injuries is lacking. A fingerboard is a sport-specific tool used by climbers for strength training of fingers. In this study, we searched for associations between fingerboard training and finger injuries in climbers with different lengths of climbing experience and levels of performance. METHODS: A web-based survey was used to collect information on self-perceived pain or injury in fingers (SPIIF) and regular fingerboard training (RFT). The survey was administered to the Finnish climbing community. Data were analyzed using contingency tables; chi-square was used to evaluate statistical significance. RESULTS: No significant correlations between SPIIF and RFT were found when analyzing all the participants (n=434) together. In climbers with 6 y or more in the sport, SPIIF was not common and RFT was negatively associated with SPIIF (χ2 [1, n=200]=4.57; P=0.03). In contrast to this, in male climbers who had been climbing for less than 6 y and had advanced to 7a level or higher (French lead/Font bouldering), SPIIF was common and RFT was positively associated with SPIIF (χ2 [1, n=75]=4.61; P=0.03). CONCLUSIONS: We suggest that doing RFT may prevent SPIIF in climbers with a long background in the sport as fingerboard training can help build stronger fingers and thereby stronger tendons and ligaments. Climbers with fewer years in the sport and less adaptation to the fingers should be cautious with their training loads and RFT to avoid finger injuries and pain.

Competitive performance predictors in speed climbing, bouldering, and lead climbing.

The study modelled the influence of anthropometric components, climbing-specific power, strength and endurance parameters, flexibility, coordination, and motor planning skills on competitive climbing performance in speed, bouldering, and lead climbing. Sixty-one competitive climbers (26 women [18.1 ± 1.9y], 35 men [21.4 ± 6.1y]) participated. PCA and MRA were used for statistical analyses. Significant predictors for speed climbing performance (R2 = 44% and 35%) were lower (ß = .43 and .47) and upper body power and strength (ß = .40 and .37) for women and men, respectively. For women's bouldering performance (R2 = 39%), they were hip flexibility (ß = .42) and upper body power and strength (ß = .37), for the men's (R2 = 53%) lower (ß = .41) and upper body power (ß = .41) and body fat (ß = .37). For women's lead climbing (R2 = 58%) upper body power and strength (ß = .59) and finger endurance (ß = .48) predict performance, for the men's (R2 = 58%) lower (ß = .36) and upper body power (ß = .28), body fat (ß = .27) and motor planning skills (ß = .27). The multivariate models provide a framework for scientifically grounded climbing training by emphasizing the role of specific performance components.

Possibility for Children with Medical Complexities to Reach a 3000-m Peak: A Report of 2 Cases.

With the recent development of neonatal medicine, the number of children with medical complexities (CMCs) is increasing. Outdoor activities are important for their psychosocial development, and the principles of accessibility should be addressed. We report the experience of 2 CMCs' high-altitude mountaineering with the necessary support. The participants were a 3-y-old girl with cerebral palsy, symptomatic epilepsy, and a ventriculoperitoneal shunt (Child A) and a 6-y-old girl who underwent bilateral Glenn operations at 11 mo for hypoplastic left heart syndrome (Child B). The support staff consisted of 4 doctors, 1 nurse, 5 nonmedical staff , 3 members from a mountaineering association, and 2 people from an oxygen company. The climbing schedule was 2 days. On the first day, we took a bus to a hut at an altitude of 2450 m and stayed overnight to acclimatize to the altitude. On the second day, we took the beginner's route, which took 3 h to climb 500 m, and our team made an attempt on the summit. During the attempt, Child B panicked. Although her lung sounds did not raise suspicions of pulmonary edema, we decided to leave the mountain with her because her transcutaneous oxygen saturation decreased. Child A had no apparent health problems and made it to the summit. Although CMCs' alpine climbing requires careful planning and staffing considering the risk of high-altitude sickness, our case suggests the feasibility of such activities with CMCs as part of accessibility.